Unsuited Connectors

This time,  we take a look at another mistake made by many low-limit holdem players:  misplay of unsuited connectors.  Many make costly mistakes by playing unsuited connectors like 9T and  “one-gap”  unsuited connectors like T8.  I am consistently amazed by what so many players want to see the flop with,  but when I hear  “It’s only $2 and Gus Hansen hit with that hand last week,”  that is a player who is more than welcome at my home game anytime.

Admittedly,  some unsuited connectors can be tempting to play  -–  especially if you’ve gone for a while without winning a pot.  Every poker player knows what it is like to go for many hands without seeing the flop,  or seeing the flop only to miss it every time.  Logic and common sense can go out the window.  Hands like T9 offsuit can start to look good,  because you have the vision of the 7-8-J flop.  But odds are that's not going to happen,  and if you flop a pair you can get into even more trouble.

You must be very selective when playing unsuited connectors.  This is because straights are not as powerful as flushes,  and you may lose even if you hit your hand.  You also have to remember that straight draws vary in value,  meaning you have to pause and ask yourself:

1) How big are my cards?

2) Am I drawing to the low end of the straight?

3) What are the chances I am drawing dead?  and

4) Do I have other outs?

The situation can also change drastically depending upon what the board is showing.

Bigger is Better:  When connectors are unsuited,  you obviously cannot flop a flush.  So unsuited connectors are much weaker than suited ones.  Be much more selective in even limping with connecting cards that aren’t suited.

Forget about playing trash hands like T9 or lower.  These are poor plays in any position  --  call only with 78 or higher if you are the little blind and it has not been raised.  To play these hands is a losing proposition,  period.

The hands that you do see the flop with will vary based upon position.  Hands that you can see the flop with from any position include:  AK-AT,  KQ-KJ,  and QJ. If it has not been raised,  raise with AK,  AQ,  AJ,  and KQ.  (Here you are not so much going for a straight as hoping to flop top pair and would prefer a narrow field.)  If it has been raised,  fold AT and KJ,  call with the rest and re-raise with big slick (AK).  (AT offsuit is a deceptive hand that has cost me plenty when I stayed in with raises  -–  so unless it is suited,  drop the AT if it has been raised; your odds for a straight are minuscule and you may very well be out-kicked if you flop top pair.)

The other playable unsuited connectors  (and one- and two-gap suited connectors)  are JT,  QT,  and KT.  Of these,  JT is the weakest and while some players will limp in late position,  I will drop it more often than not unless it is a “family pot”  of five or more callers.  JT is just too much of a  “sucker hand”  in that more often than not you will not get a straight-draw on the flop,  but will get a Queen,  King,  or an Ace,  having to muck your hand, or worse,  flop top pair with Tens or Jacks and have a Queen,  King,  or Ace come on the turn or river.  With QT and KT,  you can limp with if you are on the button,  the little blind,  or one or two off of the button.

This list may sound unimpressive,  but if you expand it and play other unsuited connectors or tempting one- and two-gap hands like J9,  J8,  T8,  etc.,  you will be a losing player.  Remember:  When your two cards are not suited,  the value decreases dramatically,  so you have to be going for top pair or better as another option if you do not flop an open-ended straight draw.

Playing the straight draw on THE FLOP.  If you do not make top pair or an open-ended straight draw,  the vast majority of the time you will fold.  The only exception is if the flop gives you the chance of making the nut flush.  For instance:  You hold AQ with the Ace of clubs;  the flop comes 9-T-8,  all clubs. Here,  you could still back-in to the straight,  but you have more outs for the flush and will see the hand to the river.  Any Ace would also put you in great shape.  If you do catch a Jack,  odds are you will have the best hand as well; just be aware that you do not have the nut straight.

If you flop top pair,  play the hand aggressively.  Bet if no one has yet and raise if there has been a bet.  If there is a bet and a raise,  however,  you have to slow down as you could be up against two pair or a player who flopped a set.  Fold your straight draw if the flop is all of one suit and you do not have a flush draw and it is two bets,  as someone may have a flush or be on a better draw.

If you flop two pair with a pair on the board,  you again have to be careful, especially if you have the lower pair.  For instance,  if you limped on the button with JT and the flop came J-K-K,  you could call one but not two bets.  If there is a bet,  raise as if the player who bet had a King; if so he will re-raise you and you can fold.  Facing two bets in this situation,  fold,  as you are likely up against another King or could be facing the other Jack with a higher kicker than you.

If you do flop an open-ended straight draw,  most of the time you will want to see the hand to the river.  However,  there are exceptions. One is if the board is paired,  and you are drawing to the low end of the straight.  For instance,  you hold T9,  limped on the little blind,  and the flop comes J-Q-Q.  This is a bad flop for you.  Sure,  you have an open-ended straight draw,  but you may very well be up against a stronger straight draw,  or a player who has made trips.  Check, and hope for a free card,  and fold if there is a bet  -–  the hand just becomes too costly to play when you are going for the low end of a straight.

The Suited Board.  Another time you shouldn't go to the river with your flopped open-ended straight draw is when the board is all of one suit.  If you have one of the suited cards,  you can certainly see the turn and river as long as that card is a 10 or higher,  but if not,  you have to be very careful.  This is especially true in a large field.  Remember,  many players love to play two suited cards at the low limits,  so you are in a tough situation.  You may be excited to have an open-ended straight draw,  but you are really down to six outs  -–  you need one of the six cards that would complete your straight but not make the board four of the same suit,  and have to dodge another card on the river.  You also have to be hoping your opponent hasn’t already made his or her flush.  With any straight draw on an entirely suited board where you have no chance at a flush,  proceed with caution.  You can limp if the pot is large and you are on a nut-straight draw, but tossing this hand most of the time is a solid play:  You have six outs and may be drawing dead,  so no need to chase when the flush is looming.

If you flop an inside straight draw,  fold unless you also have a flush draw or two over-cards. For instance,  say you have KQ,  and the flop comes 2-9-T,  all spades...  and you have the King of spades.  Stick around.  If it is two bets, dump the hand as you may be up against 10s,  a set,  or the player holding the Ace of spades.

You can also consider a raise when you have an open-ended straight draw. This has the desired effect of buying a free-card on the turn,  and deceiving your opponents as most will not put a raiser on a draw.  Returning to the example of KQ,  suppose you flopped T-J-2.  Rather than automatically calling,  bet or raise if it is a  “rainbow”  flop  (all different suits).  If there are two suited cards,  just call as you may be up against a four-flush.

Of course,  if you do flop a straight,  play the hand hard.  You can slowplay it if you have the nut straight and it is a rainbow flop,  but most of the time a made straight should be played aggressively by betting and raising.